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Customize your tourFor six weeks a year Harbin builds a city out of ice blocks from the Songhua River and lights it from inside. Around it is a Russian-built city of onion domes and cobbled Central Street, and a food culture of dumplings, sausages and ice cream eaten outdoors at minus twenty. A guide knows the hours to see the ice at its best, how to dress for it, and where to thaw out.